Sunday, July 7, 2019

Day 3 - Biking the Rhine! : 2019-06-30 (Overlandsheim to Rudesheim by bike)

Besides the beautiful surroundings and nice rooming, one of the great benefits of staying where we're at is the breakfast!  You just show up, take a booth or table, and food just appears, it's awesome. 

One of the interesting things about this area is that everyone (!) makes their own wine.  It turns out that the place we're staying at has been making wine here in their family for hundreds of years, and has won several awards for it.  But repeatedly, we've been amazed at the steep incline of the rows of vines. 


This is the family coat-of-arms for the place we're staying (dating back to the 16th century).  One thing that I thought was notable was that it was topped by a woman.  Feels pretty progressive for 500 years ago. 

After breakfast, we hopped the train to Overlandsheim to pick up our bikes where we had locked them.  By a bit of a lucky coincidence, it was a big annual bike ride called the Tal Total - they shut down the roads for 80 km - no car traffic at all so that people can ride on the roads rather than the trails (which are also very nice).  But the fact that it was a big festival made for lots of visual distraction (plenty of street vendors in the various towns, lots of music, lots of people).  It wasn't until after we finished that we found out that it was estimated to be only 10% of the usual turnout because of the heat. 

Here we are, trusty steeds at the ready!  These were nice bikes, but still pretty sturdy, nothing like riding our road bikes back home.  But the goal today is not speed (especially since it's 100 deg F)  It's having fun, and spotting as many castles as possible

This entire section of the Rhine is a UNESCO World Heritage site, something like 80 km long.  It has such a rich history, and so many castles and beautiful vistas.  This ride was a dream that Amy had many years ago when traveling through here - it's wonderful to be experiencing this dream together.

Marksburg Castle - we toured this one later in the trip on recommendation from our good friends the Camerons

Another kewl looking castle.  Like most of them, I don't know their names, and we didn't tour them.  But they made for some pretty great scenery!

Action shot

Views like this, pretty much the entire way.

Oh, just aother castle in the hills, NBD


I think this is near the legendary Lorelei - the place where some fair maiden in the hills (was brushing her hair, probably topless) and distracted many sailors to the point they crashed their boats.  

About the Lorelei - here's the thing, the Rhine (especially in this area) is really really difficult to navigate.  Lots of rocks, sandbars, and I think at its deepest it's only 20 m.  But the fact that these dudes ruined their ships (probably not actually THEIR ships), lost a bunch of stuff in the drink, etc., and then were able to blame it on some farcical "mermaid in the hills" sort of story...  That's called male privilege, my friends.  SMASH THE PATRIARCHY!  /rant

It was right about here (40 km done) that Amy and Maya decided to grab a train back the rest of the way.  After seeing them off to wait for their train, I opted to try to "beat the train back" (I didn't know exactly how far it was, but I was guessing 10-15 km).  Turns out it was 20 km.  And while I didn't officially beat the train back, I didn't come in *too* far behind them! 

There are not many bare spots on the hills, it's hard to convey the steepness of these vineyards


I biked back for this pic.  Because I am twelve.

Back to our cute Rudesheim

After such a long day in the sun, Maya was happy to stay back at the room (with a fan!) while Amy and I went out and grabbed some grub.  After our yum-fest at one of the local places, we grabbed her a Doner box from one of the places on the main street. 

This meal was very very welcome at the end of that ride.  The sauerkraut was the best of the trip yet!  

Believe me, it tasted even better than it looks

This was the Doner box we brought back for Maya.  Even though I was stuffed, the smell of this made me hungry again and willing to make bad decisions

But worry not, dear readers!  I was walking with my super-ego, and therefore, Maya got her dinner.

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